Why we don’t offer Dermaplaning at ArtMed

In medical aesthetics procedures come and go.  New things tend to be popular (remember oxygen facials?  And charcoal treatments? home derma-rolling?) but often these treatments disappear from common use because they are:

  • Prone to side effects

  • Minimally effective

  • Require constant maintenance

  • Low return on $$ invested

Dermaplaning is in our view is one of these treatments – trendy now, but ultimately won’t stand the test of time and isn’t the best option for smooth, healthy skin.

The purpose of dermaplaning is to remove the fine vellus hairs of the face and the upper few layers of the epidermis through a type of shaving technique.  The aim is to remove dead skin and surface hair in order to create a smooth canvas on which to apply skin care products and makeup.

Sounds great, right? Well maybe not…

Shaving the face for women is not dissimilar to shaving for men.  It requires constant maintenance.  When the fine vellus hairs of the face are cut off they regrow with a straight cut edge creating a feeling of stubble.  As hairs regrow there is an increased chance of ingrown hairs.  The more frequent the dermaplaning the greater the risk of ingrown hairs.

If the motivation to have dermaplaning is to remove hair, then laser hair removal is a much better and permanent option.  If surface hair is not amenable to laser hair removal (too blond for example) and is quite noticeable there is a topical prescription cream that can be used to reduce facial hair growth.

Dermaplaning should be avoided in individuals with acne-prone or oily skin. Hair on the face serves a purpose. The hair follicle acts as a wick for oil to exit the sebaceous gland and be deposited on the skin surface.  When you cut the hair off at the skin level with the dermaplaning procedure it can impede oil secretion thus clogging the pore and leading to increased breakouts. Dermaplaning is always contraindicated in patients with active acne breakouts.

Sensitive skin types may not tolerate the procedure well. At ArtMed we always advise our patients with inflammatory skin conditions to avoid any procedure that uses mechanical exfoliation (dermabrasion, dermaplaning, motorized scrubbing brushes, gel or cream scrubs etc.). Mechanical exfoliation can activate the inflammatory response in individuals with rosacea, acne, eczema or psoriasis and worsen their condition quickly. If you have increased vascularity (fine blood vessels at the skin surface) it is also contraindicated. Dermatologists often recommend against dermaplaning if you have hormonal imbalance.

If you are looking to improve your complexion by removing the dry, upper layers of your skin the best option is a customized chemical peel. Chemical peels will dissolve the upper layer of dead cells and soften vellus hairs leading to a glowing, dewy complexion.  Low level fractional laser such as Clear & Brilliant is also an excellent and cost-effective option which with repeated use over time will lead to more permanent improvement in skin colour, brightness and texture.

Dermaplaning is to some extent a short-term gain for long term pain (including the cost to maintain results).

At ArtMed we believe that consultation is the foundation of aesthetic medicine.  If you have a skin care concern or goal, we’d be pleased to work with you to create a comprehensive skin care plan customized to your needs.  We offer a broad range of treatment options because people are unique and what suits one person may not suit another. If you would like to know alternatives to dermaplaning, we would be pleased to have you book a consultation at ArtMed.

Dr. Mary Peirson

Dr. Mary Claire Peirson, HBSc., M.D., C.C.F.P, is the owner and medical director of ArtMed.

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What to Know Before Having Dermal Filler Injections